No Place Like Home

"Much earlier I spoke of the changes at state lines, changes in Highway English, in prose forms on the signs, changes in permitted speeds. The states' rights guaranteed under the Constitution seem to be passionately and gleefully exercised."---Steinbeck

I think these differences exist, but a lot of national chains, products and advertising may hide the differences. By avoiding chains (except for my home-away-from-home, dog friendly, wi-fi kicking Motel 6's) and mostly staying off the interstates, I think I have found more differences along the way than hurried travelers might. In the last few days I have made my first stop in several of the states in the middle of the country, states that in the past I lumped into one: the plains, the fly-over states, the heartland. It has been a great opportunity see both the similarities and differences, at least those which jumped off the wall at me in these very short visits. I am sure longer stays and meeting more people would prove some and disprove some of my thoughts.

When I left Columbia, MO I did a drive-by of the state capital in Jefferson City and then continued west on Route 50 toward Lawrence, KS. Let me start with the quickest impression of all: the capital building is brilliantly positioned. Coming in on 63S, you come over a rise, and there it is, several miles away, completely dominating the skyline. Driving away on 50W, I look in the mirror, and again, all I see is the dome of the capital. And this building doesn't appear to do it by height alone, like the Nebraska ("only unicameral legislature in the country") capital, which appears to be compensating for something.

On to Sedalia, MO for frisbee and lunch. We found a nice park by a 19th century train depot that spoke to a time of glory for this small, now tired, town. I did have a nice lunch served by a nice bartender. She was 6'2", and the size must have come from her father's side, as I doubt her proportions would ever take her from that awkward stage. She told me Sedalia's current glory comes but twice a year as it hosts the Ragtime Festival and the State Fair. She was from Omaha, and thought I should change my plan and make that my Nebraska stop. I gave it good thought, as not much recommended Lincoln to me, but decided to keep to my route, and to my college town strategy.

From there we listened to the farm report and raced a train full of T.E.U.'s across the countryside, one labeled MATSON. I imagined it contained our household, although I knew the route and the time wasn't right. We gained on the train, eventually passing its length only to hit the speed zone of a small town and watch it again charge to the front. Dresden, Knob Noster and Lone Jack were all good for the train; the highway between was good for me and Luci. The highway outweighed the towns, and we led comfortably when the tracks peeled off to Kansas City.

Far Eastern Kansas is green and hilly, a continuation of Missouri. It is growing flatter by Lawrence, which then rises above like an acropolis. Atop this mound, The University of Kansas, dyslexically abbreviated KU, is a very nice campus. Tasteful buildings in complimentary yet different styles form a really nice college feel. You can see for miles in all directions. And then you head down the ski slope-like streets to the college town section of Lawrence. Laid on on state-named north-south avenues, it centers on Massachusetts, referred to locally a Mass. Little would dissuade young drinkers from long nights on Mass more than the Stairmaster of a hike back to the dorm on "the Hill."

I met Gary and Kari at Louise's Downtown, where most were drinking schooners of domestic for $1.75. A schooner being a 32 oz. glass, only slightly larger than the wagon of beer I thought they were ordering. College towns are cheap for eating and drinking. This is something I was missing in Ann Arbor, where the town/gown separation makes the college bars a place I wouldn't go, and where it would be viewed as creepy if I did. In Columbia, Lawrence and Lincoln, the crowd was varied in age and affiliation everywhere I stopped. Kari told me where to go in her hometown of Lincoln, and that saved me driving and research. People in each of these middle states often seemed connected to the nearby states, and all helped me along. Louise's is a place I would return to, and only partly because I owe the buying of some drinks there.

On the way out of town, and near my hotel I stopped in Johnny's, as recommended by Gary. A loud band, but a great Hawaii connected bartender named Blair. Elementary School at Maunawili in Kailua. He also gave me Portland info as his brother lives there. Someone else I owe a drink to. When they buy me a drink, I think they must of worried about the frequency of my fuel stops and took pity on me, but it is a trend that nicely continues.....

I came to Kansas with low expectations and little knowledge. As I drove from the state I passed the billboard for the OZ Museum and thought of Dorothy. Today I better understand her desire to return.